The Best Party You Never Knew About: An Intrepid Journalist Documents the World of Cuba’s Changüí

I remember sitting next to Gianluca Tramontana at Havana’s Mella Theater in December 2016, for a concert by pianist Arturo O’Farrill’s Afro Latin Jazz Orchestra within Cuba’s annual jazz festival. I was ending a reporting trip for a story about O’Farrill’s explorations of his Cuban roots, set against the backdrop of then-normalizing relations, embargo notwithstanding,

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